Track is a very important part of a functional railway as it provides a path for the trains to ride on. Many types of track have been used from simple wood rails to 'fish belly' rails. However, over time one design won out that has a cross section that looks like an 'I'. In 45mm scales, gauge 1 track traditionally is used outdoors for the robust nature of the traditional Code 332 track. However other sizes exist and many indoor modelers plus a few outdoor modelers use these other sizes of track on their layouts.
One note about code: Code simply refers to the height of the rail. In model scales, that height is measured in 1000 ths of an inch. Code 332 is in fact rail that is .332 of an inch in height or roughly 1/3 of an inch. In G scale, various codes exist: 215, 250, 332 are the main ones however. In 1:20.3 scale proportions, code 332 rail is 6.75" in height which is around 120 lb/yd rail. In 1:20.3, this would be fine if modeling a standard gauge main line from the early 1900's, however I'm modeling a narrow gauge industrial railway, so very light rail is going to be used. Code 250 equates to about 5" high rail, or 80 lb rail. Code 250 is perfect for a mainline profile for narrow gauge, but my railway for the most part is not, so I won't need too much code 250 except on high traffic areas, or places where larger locomotive go. Code 215 is representing 4.38" high rail, which is around 65 lb/ yd rail. Code 215 is very small, but perfect for my spur tracks and the backwoods scenes.
So I've decided based on these measurements that Code 332 will not be present on the layout at all since there is no standard gauge or for that matter main line traffic to speak of. Any code 250 will be used on modules that I want to support larger locomotive operations on. Code 215 will be used on all sidings and for any track age that large locomotives would never venture onto. For turnouts, #4 will be the standard for any spur or lightly used traffic. For the main line, if you could call it that, #6 will be used. I also plan to install a 20 mph scale speed limit for my whole layout, with 10 mph in yards and rough track age. This slow speed limit means that I have no need for any long main line like turnouts.
So who makes track age then for 1:20.3 scale? For those who want to have a ready made track, PECO gauge 1 track is the best option however I find this track to be expensive and not as realistic as I like. In order to get the level of realism I desire, hand laying track is the best option. Most refrain from hand laying track in smaller scales because of the precision needed, plus the small size of the rail and other materials being used. In 1:20.3 scale I can get by with a good eye, ruler, and a pair of pliers. I've done several very small sections of hand laid track in this scale, and I can say that it is much easier with gauge 1 track than anything in HO or even O scale.
Another great plus is that hand laid track is cheaper than pre-built track since there is not nearly as much labor needed to manufacture the product.
One thing that I must mention is that although hand laying track is not difficult, it is time consuming, especially when building turnouts, crossings, dual gauge, and a host of other specialty track sections. As I've scanned the Internet looking for promising track manufacturers, I stumbled upon switchcrafters.com. Switchcrafters is a manufacturer of gauge 1 track that sells a line of turnouts, crossings, and rail for hand laid track. Turnouts and crossings have several options available in addition to the purchase of the turnout or crossing. Turnouts can be purchased with a choice of ground throws, and can also include a micro switch which powers the stock rails and frog. Both Crossings and Turnouts can be purchased as assembled (listed price) or in kit form which is 40% off the listed price. An aluminum #4 turnout assembled with no extras costs $67, but in kit form the same turnout only costs $40 plus whatever the cost of separate railroad ties. Using basswood or redwood from the hobby store, this isn't more than a few dollars more. A final must have for the turnout kits are rail spikes. Though one can use small nails or bent wire for a spike just fine, manufactured rail spikes are the best option and a pack of 500 very large spikes cost $10.
Rail, spikes, and even tie plates are for sale at Switchcrafters, and all products are for a very good price. In fact, the only item I deem to be overly expensive is the switch stand that is an option when purchasing turnouts, however this switch stand is not made by Switchcrafters, and therefore the price is simply what another manufacturer decided would be the price.
All the parts for one turnout plus the tie plates, spikes, rail joiners and 96' of rail costs $145 ($170 with shipping). Compare this cost to LGB, Bachmann, or to USA Trains and Switchcrafters becomes a very economical choice. The cost for additional ties, if wanting to use Switchcrafters composite ties, will cost an extra $30. if wanting to use lumber from a hobby store, expect and extra $15 to $20 or so. Those modelers who run outdoors need to have ties which are rugged, rot resistant, and will hold spikes in place. Types of wood I would recommend based on my wood working experiences would go in this order: 1. Redwood 2. Cedar 3. Oak. All three I would also soak in preservative to prolong the life of the ties by a few years.
The downside to hand laid track outdoors is that the ties will only last a few years (10 or less) even with the preservative coating. However, on the real railroad the same thing occurs, so technically it is realistic, just the type of realism most modelers prefer to avoid. Also, when running outdoors, any metal can be used in the rail if the locomotives are battery operated. However, if track operated, the rail should be either brass or nickel silver. I looked at the cost of nickel silver rail from Switchcrafters, and it is not too much more than their standard aluminum rail, and a #4 turnout in nickel silver is only $23 more expensive than the aluminum turnout. The nickel silver turnout is $90.
Indoors, the material are a different story. No, you still can't use balsa wood for ties, but at least you don't have to worry about wood rotting. If using oil paints on the wood, this can act as a protecting layer of paint over the ties, so weathering is a good idea. Bass wood is okay, but I would probably prefer some type of hardwood simply because of the ability to hold spikes in place. The rail on my layout will be aluminum. Most will say that aluminum is a poor choice even indoors, but I've got a plan...
The key to reliable track is not just in cleaning the track, but also in how it is set up. If every joint is soldered shut and/or every section has a power feed to it, then there is little chance of electricity not getting to the rails. Oxidized aluminum does not conduct electricity, but it is easy to clean off, so regular track cleaning sessions are the best option for combating dirt and oxidization. Just like steel, if kept dry aluminum will not oxidize as badly, so a drier environment such as indoors is beneficial. Paint on the aluminum which does not contact the wheels of the train will also limit the build up of dirt and oxidization. Finally, I want to use metal wheels on all my locomotives and rolling stock. Metal on metal contact will keep the track cleaner, plus metal does not give off any powder like the cheap plastic wheels do. How much track cleaning will I have to do? I don't know for sure, but it couldn't be any worse than brass outside in a moist climate.
If I find the aluminum to be too hard to maintain, then I would keep the aluminum for sections of track locomotives never go on such as storage track for railroad cars. If parked correctly every time, a locomotive does not need to travel more than a a couple of feet onto a spur which stores extra cars. Nickel silver could then be used for turnouts and the main track age. Either way, I have nothing to really lose by testing aluminum out first.
The only problem I currently face with the track is that I don't know what to do about throwing turnouts. The turnouts also have no insulated or isolated sections on the frog or the point rails. If running battery power, then there would be no worry. I want to use track power for my layout with a DCC system because then I can get the flexibility of radio control without the hassle of batteries, careful measurements, and worse of all, surgery on perfectly good locomotives. Most Bachmann locomotives are DCC ready, so I simply have to take off the shell an plug in a decoder, done in a matter of minutes. With Battery I would have to completely change the wiring which is something I'm not ready for.
Anyways, going back to the turnout problem, the turnout will need isolated sections of track around the frog and the point rails (the rails which move when the turnout is thrown). This isn't so bad, and can be done in a matter of minutes with a Dremel cut off wheel. However, wiring the turnout and making the turnout throw are different challenges. The simplest way I can think of is to use a target switch stand to throw the points and have a center off electrical switch to change the polarity on the frog. Two step process isn't so bad I guess, and would become habit over time. The only problem that I have with using a separate electrical switch is that if someone else were to operate the layout, I would have to explain the system to them. Oh well, everything has it's cost. Sunset Valley railroad and Llagas Creek Railways as well as AMS sell ground throws for under $25 a piece plus micro mark sells center off switches for $5 a piece. Add $30 to my track total and my estimated cost for track will be about $230 including shipping for the rails, the turnout stand, the electrical switches, and the railroad ties.
Here are my costs so far:
Bench work including foam and road bed: $100
Track including railroad ties: $230
Total: $330
Not too bad considering it is G scale.
Only one other expensive item left to analyze for the budget: rolling stock.
One note about code: Code simply refers to the height of the rail. In model scales, that height is measured in 1000 ths of an inch. Code 332 is in fact rail that is .332 of an inch in height or roughly 1/3 of an inch. In G scale, various codes exist: 215, 250, 332 are the main ones however. In 1:20.3 scale proportions, code 332 rail is 6.75" in height which is around 120 lb/yd rail. In 1:20.3, this would be fine if modeling a standard gauge main line from the early 1900's, however I'm modeling a narrow gauge industrial railway, so very light rail is going to be used. Code 250 equates to about 5" high rail, or 80 lb rail. Code 250 is perfect for a mainline profile for narrow gauge, but my railway for the most part is not, so I won't need too much code 250 except on high traffic areas, or places where larger locomotive go. Code 215 is representing 4.38" high rail, which is around 65 lb/ yd rail. Code 215 is very small, but perfect for my spur tracks and the backwoods scenes.
So I've decided based on these measurements that Code 332 will not be present on the layout at all since there is no standard gauge or for that matter main line traffic to speak of. Any code 250 will be used on modules that I want to support larger locomotive operations on. Code 215 will be used on all sidings and for any track age that large locomotives would never venture onto. For turnouts, #4 will be the standard for any spur or lightly used traffic. For the main line, if you could call it that, #6 will be used. I also plan to install a 20 mph scale speed limit for my whole layout, with 10 mph in yards and rough track age. This slow speed limit means that I have no need for any long main line like turnouts.
So who makes track age then for 1:20.3 scale? For those who want to have a ready made track, PECO gauge 1 track is the best option however I find this track to be expensive and not as realistic as I like. In order to get the level of realism I desire, hand laying track is the best option. Most refrain from hand laying track in smaller scales because of the precision needed, plus the small size of the rail and other materials being used. In 1:20.3 scale I can get by with a good eye, ruler, and a pair of pliers. I've done several very small sections of hand laid track in this scale, and I can say that it is much easier with gauge 1 track than anything in HO or even O scale.
Another great plus is that hand laid track is cheaper than pre-built track since there is not nearly as much labor needed to manufacture the product.
One thing that I must mention is that although hand laying track is not difficult, it is time consuming, especially when building turnouts, crossings, dual gauge, and a host of other specialty track sections. As I've scanned the Internet looking for promising track manufacturers, I stumbled upon switchcrafters.com. Switchcrafters is a manufacturer of gauge 1 track that sells a line of turnouts, crossings, and rail for hand laid track. Turnouts and crossings have several options available in addition to the purchase of the turnout or crossing. Turnouts can be purchased with a choice of ground throws, and can also include a micro switch which powers the stock rails and frog. Both Crossings and Turnouts can be purchased as assembled (listed price) or in kit form which is 40% off the listed price. An aluminum #4 turnout assembled with no extras costs $67, but in kit form the same turnout only costs $40 plus whatever the cost of separate railroad ties. Using basswood or redwood from the hobby store, this isn't more than a few dollars more. A final must have for the turnout kits are rail spikes. Though one can use small nails or bent wire for a spike just fine, manufactured rail spikes are the best option and a pack of 500 very large spikes cost $10.
Rail, spikes, and even tie plates are for sale at Switchcrafters, and all products are for a very good price. In fact, the only item I deem to be overly expensive is the switch stand that is an option when purchasing turnouts, however this switch stand is not made by Switchcrafters, and therefore the price is simply what another manufacturer decided would be the price.
All the parts for one turnout plus the tie plates, spikes, rail joiners and 96' of rail costs $145 ($170 with shipping). Compare this cost to LGB, Bachmann, or to USA Trains and Switchcrafters becomes a very economical choice. The cost for additional ties, if wanting to use Switchcrafters composite ties, will cost an extra $30. if wanting to use lumber from a hobby store, expect and extra $15 to $20 or so. Those modelers who run outdoors need to have ties which are rugged, rot resistant, and will hold spikes in place. Types of wood I would recommend based on my wood working experiences would go in this order: 1. Redwood 2. Cedar 3. Oak. All three I would also soak in preservative to prolong the life of the ties by a few years.
The downside to hand laid track outdoors is that the ties will only last a few years (10 or less) even with the preservative coating. However, on the real railroad the same thing occurs, so technically it is realistic, just the type of realism most modelers prefer to avoid. Also, when running outdoors, any metal can be used in the rail if the locomotives are battery operated. However, if track operated, the rail should be either brass or nickel silver. I looked at the cost of nickel silver rail from Switchcrafters, and it is not too much more than their standard aluminum rail, and a #4 turnout in nickel silver is only $23 more expensive than the aluminum turnout. The nickel silver turnout is $90.
Indoors, the material are a different story. No, you still can't use balsa wood for ties, but at least you don't have to worry about wood rotting. If using oil paints on the wood, this can act as a protecting layer of paint over the ties, so weathering is a good idea. Bass wood is okay, but I would probably prefer some type of hardwood simply because of the ability to hold spikes in place. The rail on my layout will be aluminum. Most will say that aluminum is a poor choice even indoors, but I've got a plan...
The key to reliable track is not just in cleaning the track, but also in how it is set up. If every joint is soldered shut and/or every section has a power feed to it, then there is little chance of electricity not getting to the rails. Oxidized aluminum does not conduct electricity, but it is easy to clean off, so regular track cleaning sessions are the best option for combating dirt and oxidization. Just like steel, if kept dry aluminum will not oxidize as badly, so a drier environment such as indoors is beneficial. Paint on the aluminum which does not contact the wheels of the train will also limit the build up of dirt and oxidization. Finally, I want to use metal wheels on all my locomotives and rolling stock. Metal on metal contact will keep the track cleaner, plus metal does not give off any powder like the cheap plastic wheels do. How much track cleaning will I have to do? I don't know for sure, but it couldn't be any worse than brass outside in a moist climate.
If I find the aluminum to be too hard to maintain, then I would keep the aluminum for sections of track locomotives never go on such as storage track for railroad cars. If parked correctly every time, a locomotive does not need to travel more than a a couple of feet onto a spur which stores extra cars. Nickel silver could then be used for turnouts and the main track age. Either way, I have nothing to really lose by testing aluminum out first.
The only problem I currently face with the track is that I don't know what to do about throwing turnouts. The turnouts also have no insulated or isolated sections on the frog or the point rails. If running battery power, then there would be no worry. I want to use track power for my layout with a DCC system because then I can get the flexibility of radio control without the hassle of batteries, careful measurements, and worse of all, surgery on perfectly good locomotives. Most Bachmann locomotives are DCC ready, so I simply have to take off the shell an plug in a decoder, done in a matter of minutes. With Battery I would have to completely change the wiring which is something I'm not ready for.
Anyways, going back to the turnout problem, the turnout will need isolated sections of track around the frog and the point rails (the rails which move when the turnout is thrown). This isn't so bad, and can be done in a matter of minutes with a Dremel cut off wheel. However, wiring the turnout and making the turnout throw are different challenges. The simplest way I can think of is to use a target switch stand to throw the points and have a center off electrical switch to change the polarity on the frog. Two step process isn't so bad I guess, and would become habit over time. The only problem that I have with using a separate electrical switch is that if someone else were to operate the layout, I would have to explain the system to them. Oh well, everything has it's cost. Sunset Valley railroad and Llagas Creek Railways as well as AMS sell ground throws for under $25 a piece plus micro mark sells center off switches for $5 a piece. Add $30 to my track total and my estimated cost for track will be about $230 including shipping for the rails, the turnout stand, the electrical switches, and the railroad ties.
Here are my costs so far:
Bench work including foam and road bed: $100
Track including railroad ties: $230
Total: $330
Not too bad considering it is G scale.
Only one other expensive item left to analyze for the budget: rolling stock.
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