Back to the Drawing Board, and One More Time!

Okay, now I'm really getting myself into circles.  First, I came up with a design where the modules all went into a cart that stored them.  Then I went with an all-in-one design where the module had full bench work, scenery, lighting and an overhead valance.  After my first design showed some obvious structural flaws, I then went to a compromise where instead  of having a "shadow box" design, I added a support halfway to the back to provide leverage.  However, that design for me was second rate, and not exactly what I was looking for.  Now I'm back to my second design with a new perspective.  Instead of using heavy plywood, I'm going with light plywood and 1x2 lumber to create a truss that distributes the weight of the modules when stacked in a manor that doesn't tear apart any joints.

So below is a summary of my previous designs:

First design I had simple modules that would be lightweight and fit into a cart.  I had planned for about 3 modules per cart with an additional box for buildings and land forms that had to be removed, 1 for each module.

Then I had the idea, "why not just have everything within the module and stack the modules like containers on a ship?"  And behold, my second design was born.  The problem with the design is that the plywood frame alone would be too weak, and additional support would add weight.

Then came the idea to use light dimensional lumber (1x2, 2x2, 1x3) and build a frame such as above.  Then add lightweight plywood to sheath the sides and backdrop.  While this design is okay, the backdrop, curving towards the audience at each end, would look awkward when attached to other modules.  So I gave design number 2 one last try and viola!

Each bracket, instead of using plywood alone, will use 1x2 lumber to make a truss frame.  That frame is then stabilized by being sandwiched between 2 cut pieces of 1/4" plywood.  The result, I'm predicting, will be a much stronger frame that can hold more weight. Will I dance on it?  No, but I can at least stack something on these.

So finally, I've come to the solution I was looking for, and now I can proceed with bench work design.

More bench work design

More thoughts on the module design:

I did not want to add a frame or bracing to the front of the module because it would break up the layout into a series of scenes. I needed to have support to keep the module stable and strong. The solution was simple, put away the plywood and go with dimensional lumber.

My design is based around framework from 2x2, 1x2 and 1x3 lumber:


The blue represents 2x2 lumber which gives a sturdy vertical support along the backside. The red represents 1x3 pieces that are the main supporting braces for both the scenery base and for the overhead.

The green represents the 1x2 pieces which are secondary support for the 1x3 braces. The 1x2 and 1x3's are combined at right angles to make the familiar L girder bracing popularized by Linn Westcott. However, instead of L girders spanning the full length of the module I instead use the girders as cross braces.

The main difference between this design and the previous design is that instead of a 30" overhang, I plan to have a vertical 1x2 with bracing about halfway down the cross braces on each end. Structurally, this cuts the overhang roughly in half and the brace will give the back framwork some leverage that puts the lumber under tension rather than compression. This design allows for the trains to pass in front obscured, resulting in an uninterrupted view of the layout.

 

A curved, panoramic backdrop for each module instead sets the scene. One thing I left out of the diagram is that there would be several 1x2 cross braces along the bottom framework which will support the foam scenery base.



The addition of pink or blue foam on top of the cross braces provides a solid and light scenery base. Additional layers can be added to give a varying ground elevation within each module.



Each module can then be completed with very light plywood along the top and possibly the sides and bottom. The 2x2's along the back will do a good job of protecting that side by itself.



The addition of track, scenery and structures plus a lighting system in the valance completes the module. The design protects everything that is within the module while also making the layout look more professional. The backdrops, curving towards the front at each module end, frames the scene while also allowing trains to pass obscured. I'd prefer that the space between the vertical support and the front of the layout be enough that two tracks could be laid down, allowing for sidings to be constructed.

List of items needed so far:

Expect to see this list as it is updated, but this is a general 'shopping list' for items I am going to need to purchase for this layout:

• rail
• turnouts with accessories such as switch stands
• ties
• rail spikes
• tie plates?
• wire
• solder
• rail joiners
• wire connectors for between modules
• a power supply or power system
• pine 1x4's
• plywood
• wood screws
• clamps or bolts to secure modules together
• 2x2's
• foam board
• rollers or casters(?)
• lighting system (tube or rope lights?)
• fabric for skirting
• fabric or canvas to cover open areas of modules when in transport
• paint or photo for backdrop
• backdrop and fascia material (hardboard?)
• paint for ground cover
• roadbed
• ballast
• ground foam, turf and other scenery materials to represent dirt.
• material which makes good grass (static grass?)
• materials to make both coniferous and deciduous trees
• either material to build railroad cars, or railroad car kits
• paint and possibly airbrush for models
• lumber for buildings
• rocks, frocks, plaster casts of rocks?
• a vehicle or two to represent time period (1870's -1920's)
• animals and people where appropriate
• details, details, details...
• specialty tools for certain tasks
• to be continued...

Module revisions.

As I worked out the details in my module design which would have included a cart or two for module storage, I happened upon another solution which saves materials.  Instead of having simply a module with a scenery base, the design I worked out below includes a backdrop and overhead framework to protect the trains and all the buildings.  I like this design much better, and as I work through the details I'll refine it.  I used the same dimensions as my previous design, 30" width and a 96" length.  However I also incorporated a 24" overall height of the backdrop.  Below is a cross section of the design:

The framework has a 2" thickness, and the scenery base consists of a minimum 2" thick piece of foam board represented by the pink.  Subtract 4" for the frame and 2" for the foam and I will have 18" of vertical height in the module.  While this may seem tall, when thinking in terms of 1:20.3, this would barely house a full two story building.  Thankfully, with the exception of large mining towers, no buildings were built over two stories, especially on steep terrain with nothing but soft lumber as a building material.  For the trains, I can have my porter run and still have another 9" of clearance between the roof of the locomotive and the bottom of the overhang.  with 1:20.3, the 3ft gauge cars are still somewhat short, nothing really sticking up more than 10" off the track with perhaps the exceptions of cabooses (cabeese) and passenger cars, which my railroad will have few of anyways.  I could go taller, but 24" seems to best fit when dealing with 4x8 sheets of plywood.  My one alternative is to rip the plywood into strips and build the entire module from the stips of plywood, but I'd rather cut out larger pieces that are more structurally sound.

One other problem that I anticipate is the possibility that the wood cannot support any weight on top of the modules.  For this I do have a couple solutions: use cabinet grade hardwood plywood and reinforce the frame pieces with strips of plywood to help carry the weight of additional modules or storage boxes on top.

The following are good things about this module design:

• Buildings do not have to be taken off the module if secured properly.
• This design incorporates a backdrop to set the stage
• The layout can have it's own lighting system, thus ensuring an adequate amount of light anywhere the modules are set up at.
• Layout can be divided into individual scenes if desired.
• A simple cloth or canvas skirting to go around the open sides of the module will help with protecting against foul weather during transport.
• Modules can be built with strong plywood and still be very stable and light.
• Modules can now be stacked without the need for a separate cabinet.
• The addition of a backdrop and overhang will draw attention to the trains and their stage which depict the Colorado wilderness.
• The addition of such features also makes the layout camera friendly by blocking out glare from the large spotlights often found in show areas plus the backdrop frames the scene much nicer than the back of my head in the operating pit or even much worse things like a dirty, dusty, and grimy ceiling of a large structure.
• This part isn't so much an exclusive feature of this design, but it is still a plus.  With this module style I must be in front to operate the trains, so I can mingle with visitors, point out details and keep guard over my equipment in front of the layout rather than hiding behind it.  This feature may also be a detraction for those who simply want to site quietly and read a book while their trains go in a circle.  

Besides what was already mentioned in the paragraph above, there are a few downsides, just like any design:

• If you don't like operating from the front of a layout, being in back is possible, but your line of site with your equipment will be obscured.  Besides the possibility of derailments and stalled engines, it will be easier for equipment to be broken or stolen by visitors without anyone noticing.  While I have never had any equipment broken or stolen, there is always that chance, especially at larger shows.  Keeping track of everything is even harder if you are a one man show, which I anticipate I will be for much of the time.  While I can stand for the duration of time a show is in progress, and I can go without food for most of it, this design is not for those who simply wish to sit down and watch the trains run.
• A barrier must be in place.  Some shows have them, others don't, I personally would rather have a barrier for two reasons: 1) since I must operate the layout from the front, a barrier system gives me space to move around without being in visitors' way. 2) this barrier, though ineffective against small children and the adults who really want to get personal with the layout, for the rest it gives an obvious but not intimidating reminder to respectfully keep their distance and enjoy the layout.
• Lack of headroom.  I can't have any grand scenes with this system, but that's okay, for now I don't have room for any dramatic canyons or towering mountains.  If I ever do go with something eye catching and large, it is no big trick to simply make one module that lacks an overhead frame.  
• Curved modules will be impossible, but corner modules will be possible, just more difficult to build.  I eventually want 8' diameter curves for larger rolling stock, but for now I am fine with 4' diameter curves since I have small locomotives and rolling stock.

Aside from that I can't think of much else that would be a problem.  Before closing this post, here is a depiction of the module design in the best 3D that Microsoft paint can offer.

The next item on my planning list is to decide how to support the layout on legs.  After that I will need to develop a budget for the bench work on what I want to do for a project.  If anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to read them in the comment section below.  Thank you!